Greetings spotted quolls! You guys freak me out with your cute, catlike looks and carrion-eating ways. I know you’re all like “we have luxurious spotted fur, we don’t need no stinking’ dresses,” but I’m thinking you might be interested in THIS… the cabana dress!
I’m on a maxi dress kick, aren’t I, you adorable spotted meat-eaters, you… first the Tribal Maxi and now this! And guess what… there’s more in the hopper. These are SUPER comfy and fun to wear! I used Kwik Sew 3856 and made it from Anna Maria Horner voile with a bit of contrast voile from our newest line at the shop, Prince Charming from Tula Pink. I’m loving how I laid out the pattern – I didn’t take any photos of it, but the patterns match at the side seams of the skirt for extra awesomeness!
This particular dress is a sample for the shop as I’m teaching it as a class at the end of July. I was super excited when I saw the pattern while flipping through the Kwik Sew catalog… it’s a very easy dress to sew up, it’s super on-trend AND it’s a great dress for all the lovely voiles that we’re getting in the shop!
Speaking of voile, a lot of folks are concerned that these fabrics are too transparent for garments. A reasonable question as the fabric appears to be see-through. I’d like to let you ferocious night hunters know that I’m wearing a black bra AND a white denim skirt under mine (don’t ask, it was a long day) and it barely shows!
Living with a surplice
I’ll address the most difficult design aspect first. The neckline. This dress has a full-on surplice neckline. Does anyone know what a surplice neckline is? Anyone? OK, you in the front row (she’s such a know-it-all) From the website Wise Geek “In fashion, a surplice is a diagonally crossed neckline and/or bodice. It is also thought of as a "faux wrap" style and creates a deep v-shaped neckline. The surplice is a fashionable and very feminine look used for women’s clothing, yet, ironically, it was inspired by garments worn by men.”
This type of neckline is a bugaboo for large busted quolls, as it usually is ridiculously revealing. Of course, there’s always the option of wearing the cami underneath for coverage, but I’m not a fan of that look and I feel odd just wearing a tank top under a dress. Like I forgot my pants. I often hand tack the neckline into place right where it crosses and forms a ‘V’. For this dress, I thought I needed to pull out the big guns. I put the dress on, smoothed and carefully pinned the neckline at a more modest point than my belly button. Then I took off the dress, and checked that I hadn’t pinned in any strange wrinkles. Finally, I carefully restitched along the topstitching that was already on the neckline. I’ve darkened my stitchline in the picture below so you can see what I’m talking about.
Here it is from the inside – you can see on the left hand side the floating stitchline from my fix! You can also see all my crazy stitching lines. Grr.
The pattern uses a novel method (well, novel to me) of creating the elastic casing at the waist. The seam allowances for most of the dress are 1/4”, but at the waist the instructions are to attach the bodice to the waist with a 5/8” seam then press the seam down and edgestitch so that the seam allowance becomes the casing. I didn’t want the raw edges, so I attached the bodice and skirt with a french seam. I sewed wrong sides together, trimmed the seam allowance to 1/8”, then turned right sides together and pressed. Then I sewed with a 5/8” allowance – I think I might have gone a little deeper than that, actually.
Here’s a photo of the inside of the dress. The french seam is indicated by the pink arrow. The lower line of blue stitching is the edgestitching that forms the casing. the upper line of blue stitching is the second part of my french seam where I sewed with the deep 5/8” seam allowance.
Here’s the view from the right side of the dress.
I used a variety of methods to finish the dress – serging, french seams and, well..Serging and french seams. All of the raw edges are finished very simply according to the pattern instructions. Just overcast the raw edge, turn under 1/4 inch and topstitch. Easy, but somewhat difficult to do on the arms AND the neckline, what with all those curves. The lightweight fabric really wanted to make some nice wrinkles when it got stretched a bit. I stay stitched the neckline and used my new walking foot and managed to get through it!
I did a few adjustments to the pattern – I added 2” of length to the bodice, 4 inches of width to the skirt and did a 1” FBA. I don’t know if any of these adjustments were all that necessary. I’d already purchased and washed the voile, so when I started to cut I realized that the 2” I’d added to the bodice left me about an eigth of a yard short on the skirt section. Luckily, we’d gotten in some new fabrics that went well with my main fabric, so I added a border section. I just cut about 8” off the bottom of the skirt pattern and cut the contrast fabric from the pattern pieces, adding about 1” to the top (for seam allowances) by eyeballing it while I was cutting. I love the small repetitive print with the swoopy, feathery main fabric! I also love how it is just to the WTF side of matching, color-wise.
The last word – Kwik Sew 3856/3868, The Cabana Dress
fabric: Main fabric: cotton voile from Anna Maria Horner’s Innocent Crush Collection (Slow Dance in Golden, available online); contrast fabric from Tula Pink’s Prince Charming collection (Box Hexagon in Indigo, available online)
notions: thread, interfacing (the sew-in kind!)
time to complete: 30 minutes to adjust pattern, 15 minutes to cut, 30 minutes to sew, 30 minutes to hem, 10 minutes to tack down the surplice neckline
likelihood to make another?: 100% I already have the fabric sitting in my work bag!
curvy girl score – 8 The long skirt is fun to wear and is nice and cool while providing coverage. I really like the empire waistline and the kimono sleeves as well. The neckline is trick for a larger bust but is easy to fix right out of the envelope by pairing with a tank or tacking as I did. Kwik Sew gets double gold stars for releasing a woman’s version going up to 4X (I started with XL and did my adjusting, due to my narrow, wimpy shoulders!)
Nikol, my lovely boss and head fabric buyer (aka ‘pusher) made the knee length version out of another of the Tula Pink voiles we got in (available online). Blue is certainly her color, isn’t it??